Bulwark Repair, initial steps

One of the big projects we’re tackling on Calypso this winter is the bulwark/stanchion post rot on the port side. We’ve been aware of it for a little while, and finally we can take the time to address it.

*Dark wood under cracked paint? Sure sign of compromised wood.*

The bulwarks are the kind of railings along the sides of the boat. They’re made of 3 planks of wood stacked vertically on top of each other; there are a couple of different joints (called scarfs) along the length. The photo above shows one half of a bronze hawsehole, where lines for docking or tying off the dinghy can go. I’d already removed the other half of the hawsehole, which is why there’s a mottled green and dingy white section visible looking though it. Old sealant. The two halves don’t QUITE touch when they’re both installed. Not ideal.

Calypso is a fiberglass boat with a fair amount of traditional wood, including these bulwarks. A lot of Bristol Channel Cutter owners finish the bulwarks bright (varnish); we declined to sign up for that level of maintenance even when we were 23 and have always had ours painted. Paint is great at protecting the wood until it breaks down and allows moisture in and traps it under the paint, causing rot (varnish will do the same thing, btw). Any spots where water can get in are suspect. Salt water isn’t the problem, but rain water definitely is.

After we moved Calypso inside the shed at the yard, Jeremy started removing the rotten wood on the port side. (I was busy dismantling all the external hardware as step 1 in the “leak mitigation” aspect of our winter project list.) It was a bit more extensive than he’d hoped.

We knew the stanchion posts (vertical posts) around this beam hawsehole area were in need of replacement but hoped there wasn’t terrible damage on the planks themselves. We had no idea of the damage to the coverboard (the flat piece along the deck). So the project is a little larger than expected. Luckily, it’s only the port side with this issue; the wood on the starboard side is still in relatively decent shape.

Step 1 was removing the rotten wood and determining the extent of the problem. This took a full week of work, mind you, and a mix of tools like scrapers, the electrical oscillating tool, chisels, and a hammer and crowbar. Plus the screwdriver to remove the fasteners.

Step 2 was deciding on how and where to scarf in new wood on both the coverboard and the planks. You need to cut out all the rot and scarf into good wood, but you don’t want to cut out too much good wood. It can be a tricky balance. The planks have the added complication of being twisted and bent, meaning the jig for creating the scarf joints will be . . . fun.

Step 3 was templating and cutting out a new coverboard section. A 3/4” piece of marine plywood was just about the exact thickness.

*New coverboard section, dry fit (more trimming to go)*

It feels good to have a plan and to be executing it. Many more updates to come!