We LOVE Newport!
We didn’t expect to love Newport. In fact, we weren’t even going to go. Our preference is low key, out of the way places; Newport’s glitz and glamour doesn’t exactly fit that description. But the wind direction meant that the anchorage in Newport was better than the one in Jamestown, so off we went. It was after Labor Day but butting up against the Newport Boat Show, so we were taking our chances that there would even be anchoring space for us.
Are we ever glad we did. Two nights wasn’t long enough!
Why did we love it?
For starters, the sailing in Narraganset Bay was astounding. We beat down from Bristol, enjoying how the boat responded to the 12 knot breeze even though we were tacking, not usually our favorite activity. Passing under the bridge, turning into the harbor, we came head to head with a couple of the boats practicing for the New York Yacht Club/Rolex Invitational; the Canadian team gestured for us to proceed ahead of them. Every time we sailed in that body of water was spectacular. Winds from 10-15 knots, sometimes north sector and sometimes south sector. We’re used to the Chesapeake Bay, where wind is generally a fantasy especially in the summer months. Being able to reliably sail quickly to wherever we wanted to go was liberating. And coming in and out of Newport Harbor pitted us against international crews and couples on boats large and small, and one memorable dinghy ride around a tacking 12 meter boat. Spectacular.
Boat watching is unparalleled. We sat on our anchor and barely wanted to go below, so entertained by the variety of boats we could see. 12 meter yachts sailed out of the channel, ducking past huge motor boats. Fleets of dinghies, 420s mostly, scooted by. We saw people paddleboarding with their dogs, people kayaking, people driving inflatables. Gorgeous wooden boats bobbed at moorings with brand-new high-tech catamarans right next door. And all of that was before we got in the dinghy to go ashore, a half mile ride that took about an hour as we detoured to ogle as many beauties as we could. Beautiful.
Newport makes cruisers welcome with a large, well-kept dinghy dock. The harbormaster, when called on the VHF for a mooring, is quick to direct people to anchor if there’s not a mooring available. At the head of the dinghy dock you’re welcomed into the Maritime Center where you can get showers ($1.75 for 7 minutes) and do laundry. No walking blocks with the Santa bag of dirty clothes required! The grocery store, a decently stocked Stop-N-Shop, is just 4 blocks away. It’s easy to get what you need from a practical standpoint (the liquor store for beer and wine was next door to the grocery store.) In all our not-very-vast wanderings, that’s pretty close to the most convenient grocery shopping we’ve come across, second only to Port Washington (where the dinghy dock is quite literally across the street from the Stop-N-Shop.) Convenient!
We walked part of the Cliff Walk, explored the docks a bit, and promised ourselves that we’ll be back. We didn’t get to visit any of the museums or the famed mansions, nor did we find that perfect waterfront bar to sip a beer while we watch the harbor goings on. There’s plenty to enjoy even if none of those is your thing at all.
What else will surprise us about Newport? We can’t wait to find out!